Fitting Tolerance of the Garment and Garment Balance
Physical Proportions of Human Body:
The relation of the various parts of the body to each other, in the proportionate, or regular, figure and in other recognized form types, should be regarded as a necessary study by the garment designer.
The body should not be regarded as am of unrelated parts. Just as the various organs of the trunk and head are functionally related and inter – dependent, so all the parts of the body combine to form a harmonious entity possessing qualities of form and size which must be understood in their relation to clothing.
Bone StructureMuscular Structure1. The nape (Seventh Cervical vertebrae) 2. The fennticulus (Sternal notch) 3. The Shoulder blader (Scapulae) 4. The Acromion of the blade (Shoulder end) 5. The armpit ( axilla) 6. The ilial points ( Crown of the pelvis) 7. The knee – cap (patella)1. The trapezius (the neck). 2. The deltoids (arm and shoulder). 3. The greater pectoral (chest). 4. The latissimusdarsi (The lower blade). 5. The gluteal group (the seat). 6. The vastusexternus (the outer thigh). 7. The gastronemius (the culf).
The Human body may be divided under the following headlines:
1. Head
2. Arms
3. Trunk
4. Legs
What is Fitting Tolerance of the Garment? A fitting tolerance is always distributed normally over the garment; it is not deposited locally. The normal working ant of a system will ensure its automatic and even distribution throughout the girth of a garment.
An amount of absent 2 inches, on the girth measures will usually be sufficient, and all garment systems provide for at least this amount.
The trousers waist is, the only body girth where an exception is made and no tolerance left. This is because a close trousers waist is generally desired, and also, that another garment has to fit over the waist.
Garment Balance:
As a general definition, Mr. Thornton in his International system defines the various aspects of garment balance with regard to definite types of figure, Size, Shape, and attitude are taken into consideration in their usual and unusual forms.
According to Mr. Thornton, has explained that the garment balance is “ The adjustment, in harmony with the natural attitude of the figure, of the back and front lengths”.
Proportionate Balance: This has relation to the size of any draft pattern, or figure is correct, or incorrect, as the case may be, when judged by a given proportion of the breast circumference such draft, etc.,
But it takes no recognizance of specific forms, which although identical as to size, may vary less or more in their figuration. If is proportionate as determined by any given system.
Normal Balance: “This is ready figure. When the front and back depth sections which control balance equal each other, then we have normal balance, although these depth quantities may not be proportionate to the breast circumference. For example: Suppose a model of 21ins. breast has its scye depths reckoned from the base or breast line at 10 ins. Here this 10 ins is disproportionate but normal”.
Particular Balance: “Has relation to the specific form about to be fitted. It is evident that we could have a figure, Pattern, or draft that could be unequal in its balance quantities. If wanted not be either strictly proportionate nor normal.
Reference: The Theory of Garment Pattern Making by W. H. Hulme